By Adem Lewis / in , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , /


Art of the Hammer: Behind the Scenes Greetings. Lately DIY-channels have become very popular, and those who are “exposing” them alledgedly. Sometimes I also watch lifehacks: someone tries to make a core out of a construction bolt or to weld a fastener from the nearest hardware store to the bearing steel. You can think anything you want but personally I consider it as show & amusement, not a study guide. You don’t try to repeat something you can see in a blockbuster movie. Well, there are channels with a decent content. I have mentioned DIYs on purpose – today we’ll make a hammer for you. No, another one. This is the field-specific soft hammer. It is made out of soft steel so the tool can stay in one piece. Personally I use it to drive out a key or changeable equipment on the power hammers. We’ll make Bellerophon Hammer – the symbol of our show, 3kg approximately, – and we will give it as a gift to the Kind Master channel. We must choose the material to start. But before that – we need your attention. This is an operative blacksmithing workshop where we can have orders. All our contacts are in the description. We have no managers so if someone writes to you – they are probably fakers. Also you can support us on Patreon, other means of support are in the description too. By industry standards, hammer heads are made of 50 steel, U7 steel (K970) or some another with similar features. We have 2 steels: the first is 5HNM (L6) or as I say “Hard to Find Me”; And the second is 47GT, “eaGer to Test.” There is also a billet of HVG, but only good punches are made out of it so in this case it won’t fit us. I really want to make a hammer out of half-shaft but there are some nuances. Firstly, we’ve got it only recently, so I don’t know which features it would get after heat treatment yet. Secondly, and more importantly, – it’s pre-owned so there might be some micro-cracks which… will make no good in the working process. i. e. item can burst as well as in the forging process and the heat-treatment, or even worse – in the hands of the future owner of this tool. And 5HNM is a factory billet and I suppose it was made in USSR, I’ve made many things out of it so I can trust it, the hammer will be made out of this steel. Cutting, heating, giving the cuboid shape. The cuboid is ready. Now we must be careful – we need to punch the hole through the center. We can fix little shift on the metalwork, but if we miss completely, we can just throw the billet away. Well, as the rule says, the first hammer goes soft. To punch through, we’ll use this thing. This is HVG steel which I mentioned before. We’ll mark out the center using a caliper, punch it, heat up and punch through. You should mark everything out on 2 sides as we can’t hit the center perfectly. Our center will be exactly between two “stripes”. Wow, we’re lucky, almost perfectly. A millimeter. How to work with a punch? Hold it as straight as possible and do a light punch. Let’s check what we have got. If we hit, if there is no need to fix, then hold it to the same place and punch it to the maximum. If I make only one hole in the center, when I’ll heat it up, firstly, it would be hard to find, and secondly, I can place a punch by a slight angle and the hole will go to the side. Super! Heating up again and punch it through. Why do we punch through and not mill? When the billet is forging, it becomes relatively harder. And to mill some good compound steel, we must anneal the billet. i.e. heat it up to the forging temperature and leave it to cool slowly for approximately 12 hours so metal can become soft and we’d be able to mill. Just think about how long it would take us to make one hammer if we stick to such procedures? And to punch through a hole, we don’t need to wait. Mark out, heat up, punch. Punches should be made from 2 sides in symmetry, so holes will match, everything should be smooth. The forging is ready. The fun part is over, the boring part begins, at least, for me. So I’ll give the thing to Valentin, but before that the hammer is required to be annealed so the metalwork can be easier. Place it in the furnace, it will cool slowly till the morning. On the next morning The hammer looks as it supposed to. Now we must apply images and symbols on the flats to it. We have 2 symbols on the edges: the fire on the left, the water on the right. They symbolize the blacksmithing: hammer, fire, water… beard. And in the center, in a circle, there is a symbol of our channel – Bellerophon. It’s a Greek mythic character, who saddled up a Pegasus. Well, this Pegasus is the symbol of our channel. To make him, we apply a masking tape to the full surface of the hammer, then we’ll remove the tape where we’ll cover with some paint, paint it, remove the tape fully and do the etching. The hammer is dyed. Now we should remove the tape. Because of the fact that the billet was heated to the 200 degrees, after we removed the tape there is some glue from the tape, it can become a sealer for electrolyte. So take the solvent and wash everything up so there will be no glue. For the second layer etching we’ll use oil marker. As revealed, it is rather good sealer for etching. Apply marker to the places we don’t want to etch – they’ll stay bumped. When marker will drain, we can take a scriber and fix an image with it. That’s all. The hammer head is ready, we just need to make the heat treatment. If you want to know more about how we do the treatment on 5HNM steel, you can watch our previous videos. The link is here. – The last sequence, the last take “New Year Gratulation”… Action! Dear subscribers, this is the last replica this year. Thank you for staying with us. Your support and positive feedback give us confidence and desire to overcome ourselves. On behalf of our team: those who are on-screen those, who are on the set and those who are behind We wish you a Happy New Year. See you next year! And we better go and make Burial Blade. – And… Cut!


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