ROTPUNKT Full Film | Alex Megos

By Adem Lewis / in , , /

The obvious beauty of free climbing is you actually giving the Walker chips In one hand, he’s a machine On the other hand also just human You I Never thought that I would be able to push the limits of sport climbing I Mean I was Scared of failing so I would then end up not trying certain things because I knew that I might not succeed on them Now I’ve already spent more than 40 days on the project and I don’t even know how close I am to sending With climbing there’s so many different movements Mother Nature just create so many more interesting things than just left right left. Right? I think that’s what’s appealing about climbing The challenge to only use the natural features of the rock to get up which makes rock climbing infinitely hard Restrict, yes because it meant like okay you fuckers no more point on the Pitons get to the table Now he’s having to have a whole new game In Germany, they’ve had another school of thought which turned out to be revolutionary It was absolutely carniculture the whole point changed everything the complete history of climbing changed with this red dot The obvious beauty of free climbing is you actually giving the rock a chance to win. It’s a fair game Style it’s about style it gave climbing. What climbing is nowadays Regarding is just an expression of trying to set yourself free. It’s just the way Okay, it is deep it’s not a slap all the way Jumble of the first son was made by Chris Sharma in 2008 climbing it in one giant 80 meter pitch and making it the first nine be the first 15 be worldwide – I think there was flash ball. I think every road is flashable if you’re strong enough Comes down to linking all the sections. Well, it’s not trickery to it He wants to flash the Drude fast flash. Whatever Can’t be that hard or that sections can’t be that hard but a 50/50 chance of climbing it in one day. Hmm. I Just give slack today. Just give rope rope rope rope rope rope anchor BAM That’s it start here and Up there in between. It’s just climbing The first time I met Alex was in a climbing gym in Southern, California We knew that Alex was going to be strong, but they weren’t really prepared for how strong Alex was It was very clear that at that moment in the gym that that was the future The route starts off with easy part of the climbing a bit of a tricky section in there But afterwards you’re starting on a Ledge and you get a low hand rest and that’s were the actual of 45 degrees steep climbing starts Physically he’s able to climb way harder than he’s clamping out and way harder than the grades are existing But the mental part of this is also something which is not easy The actual crux is too big move to a right hand Pinch and from that position. It’s really hard to get a left foot drop knee From which you take a cut loose and take a big swing From there the endurance part of through it starts 20 feet before the lip. There is an undercling pocket to a crimp which was familiar the red point Crocs Got a bit shot down definitely on my first day On the second day went a little bit better were just marginally better I would say In multiple parts only in some sections, but it was so far off anywhere near sending You know and a little worse I don’t know it just gets all the edges of fingers That’s why I taped up this one before those one foggy That was really cutting into it and I didn’t want to open it up. I Think he’s a bit nervous And not really confident on one hand. He’s a machine on the other hand also just human I Know I am able to climb it and in my head if I want to be the best rock climber in the world I should Have already climbed it in my eyes If I leave without climbing it it was just mean not good what it takes to be the best There’s that personality trait where he’s hard on himself you Don’t just go climbing for fun every day You’re working towards something that is sort of this vision beyond what most people probably are able to conceive I mean he was training for roots. He wanted to do years later When there is chalk on a hole and someone hold it before and when you’re not able to hold it To accept this I’m not the best Someone climbed before and I am not able You’re founded yeah not strong enough I Don’t want to blame it on anything else to be honest. I mean when it comes down and it actually was because I was not strong enough Well, I’m gonna fly back home and having climbed the route I wanted to climb Hardest part is like you feel like you failed. I Feel like I’m probably traveling about eight months a year well over 200 days I’m gone from home Every time I come home from travels that moment when you turn into your home Street There’s always a special moment Just have my routine back but I was used to from some years ago and I think that’s that’s important Performance-enhancing drugs Double power orange Purple sweet potato I should do this. Well rewind rewind orange and purple carrots Special about my hometown is that it’s good stuff right new are next to it Which is it’s one of the biggest climbing areas in the world. There’s about 12,000 roots in the Franklin Yura Since most cracks are not very high the roots are normally not very long. So it means to make it hard Obviously the moves have to be hard The rock is limestone nollie moves really hard climbing small holes and weird hole study Don’t really know how to grab first of all and what makes a massive difference Where you place your index finger where you place your thumb? Wolfgang ghoulish and could all that back in the day made the front near a famous Climbing is sharing because you always are visit art nerve You have to trust your friend your partner and if you trust somebody and if she’s our friends, we share everything Maybe not say wife anymore, but I Met Curt first time in 73 it was outside climbing from Laura You are corral bird in I’m nervous on and so we climbed together Because In a couple of weeks later. He moved to my house and From sis on we became the best friends He was he a billionaire and he was really smart he studied physics and math he was always up for irony and good or bad jokes and He was fearless. He did a lot of bar food free solos He was by far the best climber I ever had seen And then when he started with his red points everybody was laughing about him and said, hey could a red point At first it was with a brush with a brush and visa color and Send later on in these parades and Shh red point done at The base of the route to let people know there’s no longer an a drought if it had been first Free-climbed you’d had the red circle painted at the base of it and that would get the rice It’s the red circle once you start in the ground and placed all your gear on the way up Then the red circuit filled in that would get the gold point That was a red point if you fall you have to go down you have to pull the rope down and then you have to reach the Restart from the ground said was a and still is a definition of the red point climbing the idea the red point came Well from a coffee pot in the house that they all shared in over Shawn Bock They had this one coffee pod and in order to get the spout to pour you’d line up this red dot with the spout and Open up and pour coffee. And that’s where the actual red dot thing came from What do you wanna do do you wanna paint red points and all the clients We we climb free and he said yes why not because we have to show say community said we’ve climbed it free and it was also a little provocation for the old classic climbers Of course the idea for a pump it has to do something also with the protest against the old structures We wear this kind of knickerbockers and B we go out on a Sunday afternoon Maybe be climbed the little bits and we sit in a restaurant and have singing songs It says times together. When should a Menaka toda 99 in your line? Lalala, we do you know it you’re loaded Everybody will think we are drunk already We’re still old traditionalists in your thinking of those cliffs as being preparation for the big mountains So it really was just practiced climbing and meant that was free climbing as free climbing says pulling on gears pulling on gear stepping in Stirrups, it just didn’t matter savoir snow freak 9 being in Germany. It was all eight climbing it was strict Yes, because it meant like okay you fuckers no more point on the Pitons get to the top, you know, it doesn’t count anymore No, I’m not pulling on anything. Get up this just to rocks features So the evolution of climbing really just went from just came to atop something to how you get to atop of something That’s nyah nyah, too It was like a revolution here it was absolutely counterculture it’s this time because it was 100% different Everything was like in 68 very famous in Germany getting more free Being against structures being against pressure being against sort of pressure. I Think free climbing is just an expression of trying to set yourself free. I Mean when I was taking photos of disguise, I was not always sure that Picture say that will make climbing history or whatever Except maybe Excel directed I knew at this time. Oh, that’s something really really special Cutting myself be met wolfgang at a climbing festival and we saw his a really young talented climber and Three years later. He rented a room in the house And it started to become a really bowel noun as a climber house where every climber can stay and Said was when the name hotel from Miura started It was always a very open house and always full of climbers and it was very communal So there was Kurt Wolfgang Norbert and Ingrid Kurt’s girlfriend There were the four people living there at first when I first went to the house We don’t it needn’t Victor kovitch at the hunt go home authentic authentic, Ithaca home experience suitable after Your wolfgang was leading for some German climbing, you know, he was well known in Europe by oh, you know early eighties It’s really a great climber his resume it’s not not one to be trifled with in 1985 one of the first big roots that Wolfgang did was once in the gym. That was the world’s first 14a The following year he would do Wall Street, which is the world’s first 14b And then of course the cap is doing action direct All the things in your life influences your climbing And you only see the climbing you see not the whole person With Alex, it’s not that we have to show him how to do some pull-ups He knows after all these years how to train for the explosive craft training. The Salomon was not One of the biggest point is that we talk a lot He can call us day and night one of us Patrick or me we are always there for him to handle with the situation to be a professional climber and Being an professional climber is not easy When you see in the magazines or in an Internet you just see them succeeding as a nine a nine a plus 99 b-plus, but the approach to this and the times in between all their falls and all the pain and all the suffering This is a daily struggle You get up How do I feel today Can I train hard maybe today I’m not the strongest What’s going on Yeah, I have to climb hard because it’s my job my job is to climb hard Yesterday we filmed Wall Street. I think he climbed it a few times months before Ok, it was very bad conditions 28 degree and humid and When you’re not climbing well, it means for Alex everything Last year, I could do the moves and today not so now I’m not that strong So there is something wrong I’m on the wrong way He never will say this, but it’s inside Not every day is the same One day is good. One day is bad. No every day have to be good and this is not possible What can I do to accept this and this is not fucking easy? I’m not at the point where I can say it I can deal with failure or I am a patient person. Not at all. I hate failure Well, I always say there is no excuses and then somebody replies oh no, I mean you could have probably climbed in better conditions I say well. Yeah true, but I could have a smoke landed if it would have been stronger Do you have to change negative thoughts into positive thoughts and think okay. Well, I’ve got a chance to improve I Always try to help him to deal with all these ups and downs to come back on track My philosophy look good feel good climb good This is probably a good contender for the strongest Church right now I climbed like top in that one I can’t lucid dreaming in that one. So I like the color yellow and I like carrots And these one? those two were actually the ones with Which just started having yellow shirts because I saw these ones online and I really liked them so ordered three of those each one of them and each one of them are probably climbed a thousand eight eight and harder I Mean I’ve got them since 2013 then and this one I climbed them the 90 on site. I started critical Why do I like to combine all my patterns Well because everybody says you can’t combine different patterns. So I said Well, I can combine different patterns. There we go. So normally I can combine every short with every shirt as well Don’t give a shit to be honest whether it matches or not. Oh my god More is always more more flowers more colors less legs. I Always invited everybody over to the front nearer to come and climb with me Like we have been before he’s really open he invites a lot a lot of guests from everywhere to share his clients Yeah, I was my dad who introduced me to the sport Did a course climbing course with Wolfgang Gilley had Norbert son back in the day Qaeda, in fact the whole family was climbing and took us all out One day this little guy came in Directly with his climbing shoes on huge ones We said come on Alex. Try this one. Yeah. Okay Dickie try it was not trying he climbed it This was the beginning yeah step by step here he’d learned harder and harder and harder and Pretty fast we saw that it’s not normal what he is able to do Compared to the other kids they were all good and he was migos Usually Egeland ten or twelve days and then a half day off This is the the difference also between other climbers after a hard landing day or two hard climbing days, they need a rest Alex now no rest From the day he began with national competitions. He won nearly everything When he was 14 up to he was 18, he was really unstoppable In 2009 and 2010 Alex won 9 out of 10 international youth competitions Alex expected from himself always 100% and When it comes to the days when it didn’t work out, it was it’s not okay There was one competition where one guy was a bit better than him It was the first time ever that someone could hold something where he couldn’t hold on He was mentally wrecked every day we talked on the phone and pinkie, what should I do Nicky what happened? Pinkie? He always filled up his energy with climbing outdoors and Now you see in his eyes that he he also needed again to go climbing outdoors Cycling was 10 out of 10 I would say I mean as a teenager, I was 13 14 15. All I wanted to do is go out and rock every day straightaway after school I would ride my bike to the train station take a train and then we would go out climbing and I would be back by 11 p.m. I Think when I did the 9a on sight everything changed when that happened I was in Spain with a couple of mates Second day, I didn’t know what to do and then I had to look in the guidebook and I saw I started critical at 9a I Was really pumped and really at my limit got to the last bolt and looked up and saw the anchor Still not realizing what I’ve done and as soon as I got back from the campground like it was all over the Internet And then suddenly I found myself answering emails. So 3 a.m. I Think that was probably in the moment where I thought ok, I could become a freshman climber You know I remember hearing about him in the magazines and then you went from being pretty good climber to being Possibly the world’s best climber in the span of like a year It was just breaking records left right and center in terms of his fast how quickly he was repeating these cutting edge routes When you watch somebody who is stronger than anyone you’ve ever seen before in real life you almost can’t believe that that’s possible If you’re going to accomplish something hard it’s a road littered with failures It’s really easy to get involved with a project and have failure to find the project That’s what makes the great climbers failure is part of the process and it’ll get downtrodden by to disperse them onto How do I do better? We are in their original fitness center called combos in Nuremburg the thing behind me said is Legendary combo spot and we built it 88 in the combos Fitness Center to have a special tool for climbing training in workout You hang you pull your Traverse go up and down and have different edges here. We have surround slow bus We have small ones we have big ones It’s I think she holds after so many years not getting smaller and smaller For Wolfgang Cooley says combo spot was a Psyche to see act your direct if he wouldn’t drain here on the combo spot It would have take him much much longer to do the first ascent or never The Franken euro is gonna be a cruel place for you if you’re not prepared for it a Campus board in a place like the Franken euro where you have so many small holes and small Pockets it would train you how to basically latch onto these holes My idea was to put the kombu spot, but Wolfgang duly made it really famous Because he did his special one finger pull up workout for the axial direct Yes Wolfgang brought this this training for climbing on a kind of science-based Level now, I feel good. And now I start climbing the route and alex is a little bit like this. It was a milestone For training he was not touching the rock He was think spending time training then start took it in the route and he felt strong enough First of all what he did it Nobody knew what it what it was. I Can’t remember what he even said about the grade. Just whether he was the one who first proposed 9a or I can’t even recall And the last week I remember I never saw him before almost crazy it was like feverish in his eyes That really was a Completely new great accident and it lasted for like it’s still a legend. It was the best night So since I’ve started climbing and since I’ve had my first a day I started writing down Every route it ain’t harder that I’ve ever done in my life Each of these books has got approximately 700 and if I’ve got three four ones and one half for one that makes seven hundred Thousand four hundred two thousand one hundred and two thousand five hundred roots Yeah, since I could climb I never wish to climb a route more than this one If you grew up here in the fracking yura as a kid everybody tells you about action direct I mean I knew about action direct, you know the moment when I started climbing I Said I waited a long time and I was standing underneath it many many times When I climbed it and was all within two hours even if it was not my most meaningful performance for me was the best and the most moving Feeling to have a top outer route The history about Wolfgang Gillikin action direct is fundamental for a climbing world that’s why action direct always was this mythical route and Will always remain what it is Some of the drawers are 30 years also could be that they’re hanging here since then Well, that’s from the top of ghettoblaster Look at that good thing Ankush indirects How old was he when he climaxes on direct He died 31st of August 92 and he climbed it on the 24th of September 91 just before his 31st birthday My time in the Franken Europe ended with Wolfgang’s death I Had contacted Wolfgang’s there. Hey, we’re gonna arrive at this time. Let me jump it at the house to go climb So we drove up to his house. The house was locked like well, that’s kind of weird But I knew where the key was we let ourselves in and the phone was ringing and the phone was ringing The phone was ringing and finally I picked it up as Norbert and that’s like hey, I was calling. Uh, Russ Did you hear I said no what he goes Wolfgang had a car accident. I said, what do you mean he goes? Well, he was driving back from Munich. And yeah, I said well how bad he goes very bad He was he was uh, he’s badly hurt Wolfgang well, he became the legend here’s We’re here for two weeks trying this rule to the Chris Rama voltage nine years ago called Perfector mundo Located in I think one of the coolest sectors in Marga left. It’s called Rocco de la fiesta One of the main walls that’s as well perfect The mundos on is a 45 degrees steep wall, which is about 20 meters long And the easiest route on that wall is 14 C. So 80 plus it’s kind of all flat. He brought on small holes Since I climb lucid dreaming three years ago. I’ve never really tried anything really hard The crack smooth removed from the monitor the pinch as this Individual move coming from the front neuron being used to Manos. I could pretty much do that move straightaway It kind of does not feel as hard when you just do it as an individual move But then not just climbing in a few moves before made you realize that Move actually is hard and that that will be a very most likely the crux of the route getting past that move I’m grande catastrophic I Knew that Stefano wanted to come down as well to Marga life to try the roots and she’s been trying it a couple of weeks Ago, so I was curious to see how he was doing on the road And then Chris her as well that we’re both trying perfect him on nose So he decided to drive out from Barcelona a couple of days it’s a seed of your little miss Ala Moana to the road starts with a few jugs up to the second or third bolt and From there the hard part of the climbing starts So after you do the move after the pinch move you still have to climb approximately 14 B to the top the actual pullover above the lip is really hard to miss a Super shallow right hand sloper the edge of the roof is right where you chest is so you feel like you’re almost hitting So it’s definitely not over you’ve got a few more hard moves Then you start Reworking each move. You’re making sure that you’ve got The perfect beta micro beta for each move where all the fingers have to go What you have to do to make it just a tiny bit easier I was jumping to the pinch and as soon as I would catch the pinch and kick my foot back on I was reading the pinch and What I was always doing is I was splitting my fingers like that I would have two fingers on top and two fingers up bottom on that pinch But you actually pull and do the next move you kind of only wanted one thing on top and three fingers on the bottom You kick your left foot back on to the left hand cream that you had before you readjust the pinch and From there you pull through to the next cello pinch Figure out More detailed beta for the top Which is good just Very good which means I’m not gonna father anymore think It’s good, well less this happens No better conditions, there’s no bad conditions. There’s only weakness Okay, and we still take the meat yeah yes, I Have more okay if I’m okay later, yeah Good planning tomorrow. Thank you, but out no poor tension You see off god my fingers fucked up on the whole and I can’t fucking move I can’t move I Had it Well with four fingers, but I was not able to readjust the pinch and I felt like it could stay there forever But it was not able to move anymore I’ve never really tried anything that took me longer than ten days Maybe it’s better like this. Just wait This now is my my longest project. And I think that’s just because in the past I was never ready to actually project The pressure of trying one root I would always Stress out too much. I think that was the reason why I was never actually trying something hard. I Slowly realized that um, it will take time if I want to climb a limit Perfect. Amana now is the first real project I would say I I have I Think everybody gets impatient when trying hard routes for themselves or projects I Mean, I was actually planning to stay in Spain for two weeks after those two weeks. I stayed two more weeks From the moment when I knew that every next try could be the try. I was thinking 24/7 about the route It felt like I was on the edge I felt like I was not fun to hang out with anymore just because I Am just so much on the edge touch. I almost can’t Cope with people anymore. I kind of want to be for myself and I think that’s a hard time to be around Dealing with failure or not succeeding all the time for a long period of time kind of gets you The biggest challenge probably to not lose your mind on the way I recently learned to accept failure more than I did in the past because I realized that Climbing hard is probably more than 99% of the time failing Just to succeed one time How many sequences for me taping did you feel mourning over the years millions was taping I did yeah Yes I Would say that is my greatest first ascent for sure the others would have climbed and for sure the greatest first ascent I’ve done I Mean I knew obviously at the beginning that I was capable of climbing it but knowing that you’re capable of climbing it and Actually climbing it are two totally different things The art of climbing lies in the whore thought Alex embodies the philosophy that Wolfgang began It’s like an artist being creative doing your thing not what the others are doing Being a creator. It’s the most beautiful thing you can do in life. I think I want to know what he’s working to work is He gonna be the first one to climb 16a. I don’t think that perfectamente is at my limit I’m trying to find the right way for me to Get to the limits of human potential The idea of a human overcoming an obstacle something that is seemingly impossible This inspiring it inspires us to be better at whatever it is. We do we’d like to see something impossible and make it possible Climbing’s are different for anything else That I’ve already spent more than 40 days on the project and I don’t even know how close I am to sending I’ll never be satisfied What’s the right You

43 thoughts on “ROTPUNKT Full Film | Alex Megos

  1. Love how you imbedded Alex story in the climbing history and community, couse the spirit behind climbing is what´s connecting us all. And Alex, man, what a strong and focused guy.

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